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Arsip Tag: carrot
Do you think carrots get nervous around me? I managed to go a full two years after launching this site to bake with them the first time (classic cupcakes, not egregiously carrot-y) and from there, I haven’t stopped harassing them. They’re in salads with harissa and feta, and roasted with cumin in avocado salads, in savory Japanese fritters and in sweet American breakfast pancakes, in afternoon-ish cakes with apple cider and olive oil, and in celebration layer cakes with graham cracker crumbs and cream cheese frosting. They’re in miso-ginger dressing, and then a miso-ginger soup, and then in another soup-salad twinset with crispy chickpeas and tahini.
These last two are, of course, my favorites because I think carrots and tahini are exceptional together — it was just a matter of time before they collided again in muffin format. And isn’t it timely, too? Tahini, the Middle Eastern paste of ground sesame seeds that’s the “other” ingredient in hummus, baba ganoush, falafel and halva candy, despite having been around since at least the 13th century, is currently having a moment in the food world. These days, it’s the recipient a level of PR ardor previously reserved for kale, and has even launched an artisanal mill in Chelsea Market (that I’m bummed is never open when I do mad dashes through some mornings).
Fortunately, even if you’re (gleefully) outside a foodie media bubble, I think you’re going to love these. Loaded with carrot, the sesame seed paste provides a nutty background flavor and an even more indulgent and pronounced one if you use the glaze. They also keep exceptionally well, so if you make them today you can enjoy them right through the weekend, which is so close, I think we should kick it off right after I hit publish. It works like that, doesn’t it?
More tahini: Fortunately, we here at the SK have always known its greatness, in everything from a warm butternut squash salad, a miso-broccoli bowl, lentil salad, with crushed peas and many delicious cold noodles.
One year ago: Obsessively Good Avocado Cucumber Salad
Two years ago: Asparagus-Stuffed Eggs
Three years ago: Spinach and Smashed Egg Toast
Four years ago: Over-the-Top Mushroom Quiche
Five years ago: French Onion Soup
Six years ago: Tangy Spiced Brisket
Seven years ago: Homemade Chocolate Wafers + Icebox Cupcakes
Eight years ago: Spring Panzanella
Nine years ago: Artichoke Cranberry Bean and Arugula Salad
And for the other side of the world:
Six Months Ago: My Old-School Baked Ziti
1.5 Years Ago: Better Chicken Pot Pies
2.5 Years Ago: Miso Sweet Potato and Broccoli Bowl
3.5 Years Ago: Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls
4.5 Years Ago: Apple Pie Cookies
Carrot Tahini Muffins
As ever with muffins, I found myself skirting the is-this-cake or is-this-breakfast line. On the breakfast side, do know that these taste excellent with up to a 2/3 (1 1/3 cup) flour swap with whole wheat flour (possibly more, but I only tested them that far). I also ended up retesting them with more carrots than you’ll see the in photos, a full 2 cups (in the final recipe below) to make them even more vegetable-packed. They’re very lightly sweet and practically one-bowl for those of us who do not motivate willingly in the morning. And then there’s the glaze — I’m pretty sure a sweet glaze puts these squarely in the cake-or-afternoon-tea category, and less a breakfast, but that’s for you to decide. Indecisive myself, I only glazed half. Finally, please note that while the tahini provides a nutty background the muffins, the glaze is only for tahini junkies as the flavor is front and center.
Yield: 12 to 14 muffins
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (30 grams) well-stirred tahini
1/2 cup (80 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs
3/4 cup (175 ml) buttermilk, almond milk or (nonalcoholic) apple cider
1 teaspoon (5 ml) vanilla extract
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups (260 grams) all-purpose flour (see Note)
2 cup packed coarsely grated carrots (from about 9 ounces or 5 slim carrots)
1/2 cup (60 grams) powdered sugar
3 tablespoons (25 grams) tahini
2 tablespoons (30 ml) water
Toasted sesame seeds for garnish
Heat oven to 425 degrees F. Whisk olive oil, tahini and brown sugar together in the bottom of a large bowl. Whisk in eggs, then buttermilk and vanilla. Whisk in baking powder, baking soda and salt, then switch to a spoon or flexible spatula and stir in flour, then carrots, mixing just until combined.
Either line a 12-cup standard muffin pan with paper liners or coat them with a nonstick spray. Fill each about 3/4 of the way with batter. You’ll probably have enough for 2 more after this, so you can hold some back if needed. Bake muffins for 14 to 16 minutes, or until a tester inserted into the center of each comes out batter-free. Muffins should be domed and lightly golden on top. Let them cool in pan for 5 minutes on a rack before transferring them to the cooling rack to cool completely.
If you’d like to glaze your muffins, whisk powdered sugar, tahini and water together in a medium dish. Either drizzle this over the cooled muffins or dunk them into the puddle. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired.
I’m really enjoying Lukas Volger’s new cookbook, Start Simple: Eleven Everyday Ingredients for Countless Weeknight Meals. It came out two months ago, a positively bizarre time in which we entered and left our homes with abandon, casually hugged friends we were happy to see, and if our nose became itchy, we’d scratch it and not stand paralyzed in panic afterward. What salad days! Volger’s new book wasn’t created with pandemic cooking in mind — what was, really — but it feels just right for right now because each chapter focuses on a staple our local store is miraculously not out of (tofu, tortillas, beans, greens, squash, and more), and the recipes have refreshingly short ingredient lists and unfussy assemblies. Volger’s vegetarian cooking is very doable, the kind of do-ability that comes from the fact that this is clearly the food he cooks for himself at home, so all of the kinks are smoothed out. Everything sounds so good — smoky chickpea salad with olives and lemon and black beans with scallion-lime vinaigrette from the bean section are on my shortlist — you might find yourself wondering why this unwavering simplicity isn’t the goal of every cookbook.
Volger also led to a vegetable burger I am delighted to share here — no surprise as he once wrote a whole book on them. Yes, I got your email and I, too, found it strange that my website didn’t have a veggie burger recipe. There are a gazillion recipes on the web but they so often feel heavy to me, or with unwieldy ingredient lists. It had been too long since I made one that left us feeling great. This carrot and white bean burger is perfect — including an actual vegetable (one that stores well), two cans of beans, and a few other pantry staples, and it comes together easily. We didn’t have hamburger buns but I’d actually baked sandwich bread (weird flex but here we are) and it totally works, especially with smashed avocado, hot sauce, and lettuce. Next time I will not forget to pickle red onions, because I definitely wanted them here. Add a few shakes of hot sauce (the dark stuff you see here is Valentina) and you end up up with a colorful, flavorful, meal that feels like spring… on this side of the kitchen window, too.
As for me, if you’ve checked in on me because you’ve heard that things are getting worse in NYC, thank you. If you’ve checked in because it’s been a little quiet here, I am flattered to be missed. We are (ptu ptu) healthy and lucky so far — I hope you are too. We haven’t quite figured out how to homeschool (you can go ahead and put air quotes around that — sorry, kids) two children while having two full-time jobs and no childcare in a 2BR, so things might be a little slow here, but if this is the biggest challenge we face, I think we’re going to be okay. Friday (3/27) at 3pm EST I’m going to attempt my first Instagram Live demo of a recipe or two with the “team” I have around (husband doing the filming, kids, perhaps, doing prep); if you watch live, you can ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer. I’ll drop a link here once it’s saved to IGTV. Stay home, stay well, and treat yourself to something delicious, please. On the left: Pantry Recipes, which lean heavily on staples. On the right, Savory Projects, for those with more time on your hands.
Six months ago: Cinnamon Sugar Scones
One year ago: Extra-Billowy Dutch Baby Pancake
Two years ago: Melting Potatoes
Three years ago: Easiest French Fries and Peanut Butter Swirled Brownies
Four years ago: Nolita-Style Avocado Toast and Chocolate Peanut Butter Tart
Five years ago: Black-Bottom Oatmeal Pie and Potatoes with Soft Eggs and Bacon Vinaigrette
Six years ago: Double-Chocolate Banana Bread and Sizzling Chicken Fajitas
Seven years ago: Coconut Bread and Chocolate-Hazelnut Macaroon Torte
Eight years ago: Carrot Cake Pancakes
Nine years ago: Oat and Maple Syrup Scones
Ten years ago: Baked Rigatoni with Tiny Meatballs, St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake, Breakfast Pizza
Eleven years ago: Pita Bread, Layer Cake Tips + The Biggest Birthday Cake, Yet and Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Cornbread
Twelve years ago: Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake, Chard and White Bean Stew, Pasta with Cauliflower, Walnuts, and Feta
Twelve years ago: Skillet Irish Soda Bread and Lighter-Than-Air Chocolate Cake
Place the eggs and 1 cup brown sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and whisk at medium-high speed for 8 minutes, or until thick and doubled in volume. Combine remaining ingredients — carrots, almond flour, coconut, dates, salt, spices, baking powder, oil, and vanilla — in a large bowl, tossing to combine. Fold the carrot mixture into the beaten egg mixture, trying to deflate the eggs as little as possible, and spoon the mixture into your prepared cake pan. Smooth the top of the cake so that it’s level.
Bake for 50 to 60 minutes but please note: A toothpick inserted into the center will come out clean of batter as early as 35 to 40 minutes but it will not be baked enough (i.e. the crumb might be damp and might even seem a little underbaked in the center) unless you take it another 10 to 15 minutes. The cake is forgiving of what you might think is overbaking, even if the sides seem dark.
Remove cake from oven and immediately run a knife around the cake, to loosen anywhere that might be stuck. Let cool for 15 minutes in pan on a rack, then flip it out onto a baking rack, peel off the parchment, and let cake cool right side-up until it’s at room temperature. I usually hurry this along either outside on a cold day or in the fridge.
Make the frosting: [See Note about cream cheese temps in the post] In a stand mixer, food processor, or with a hand-mixer: Beat or blend cream cheese, sugar, sour cream, and and vanilla paste and extract until creamy and light.
To frost and decorate: Spread 2/3 (just eyeball it) of frosting on cooled cake and spread it in a thin, smooth layer. Place the remaining frosting in a bag and snip the corner off. Pipe overlapping squiggles around the cake until you’re out of frosting.
Do ahead: Keep leftover cake in fridge. It keeps (without seeming dry, hooray) for 5 to 6 days.