Arsip Tag: chips

spaghetti with swiss chard and garlic chips – smitten kitchen

spaghetti with swiss chard and garlic chips – smitten kitchen

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[This recipe got a light refresh in 2019 and some new photos.]

It’s a tough thing, you know, growing up and realizing you might not be exactly what you once thought you might. I am most certainly not the next Susanna Hoffs, Joan Jett or Mrs. Jon Bon Jovi; I’m not a doctor or astronaut but more fitting for this conversation, I always thought I would be an avid ingester of all sorts of greens and here I am, still quite put off by most of them.

what you'll needseparate leaves from stems

I know this is something of a sacrilege in the food-fixated world, but I’ve never gotten into broccoli rabe (too bitter, almost always too tough), kale (tastes “funny”) and collards (ditto). I wish I would and I wish I could, but I’ve also learned that there are bigger fish to fry (so yeah, that too) than to fret over those things that have just never appealed to you.

ready to go

But Swiss chard is my green; it’s my boo. We get along famously. It picks up where cooked spinach in dishes leaves off (too soft, loses flavor too easily); it’s a little tougher but still tender enough to cut with the side of a fork, it holds it own in big soups and stews and quiches and it’s just bursting with all of that iron-y goodness I miss out on, eschewing so many other members of the humble greens family. I not only like it, I look for excuses to cook it and this was one of my favorites yet.

garlic, becoming chipsgarlic chipscook the stemstoss tossspaghetti with swiss chard and garlic chipsspaghetti with swiss chard and garlic chips

One year ago: Cranberry, Caramel and Almond Tart This is the best thing, ever. I am making it again this month. And again.
Two years ago: Stewed Lentils and Tomatoes

Spaghetti with Swiss Chard and Garlic Chips

  • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 head garlic, cloves peeled and thinly sliced lengthwise though I am sure crosswise would work as well
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup dried currants (we skipped this)
  • 2 pounds green Swiss chard, stems and center ribs finely chopped and leaves coarsely chopped separately
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1 pound dried spaghetti
  • 1/2 cup Kalamata olives, cut into slivers
  • 6 ounces feta, crumbled (1 1/2 cups) or ricotta salata, coarsely grated
Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, then cook garlic, stirring, until golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer garlic with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Cook onion in oil remaining in skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add currants and cook, stirring, until plumped, about 1 minute.

Stir chard stems into onion mixture with water and 3/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Cook, covered, over medium-high heat until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in chard leaves and cook, covered, until stems and leaves are tender, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in a pasta pot of boiling salted water (2 tablespoons salt for 5 quarts water) until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta-cooking water and drain spaghetti.

Toss spaghetti with chard, olives, and 1/2 cup cooking water, adding more cooking water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with feta or ricotta salata and garlic chips.


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baked kale chips – smitten kitchen

I could never get into kale. Heck, I’ve long been timid about greens in general — the delicate ones like baby spinach and arugula were easy but as soon as things got a little heavier, I got nervous. When I finally found a respectable green I found palatable — Swiss chard, which I think of as the green for spinach people — I went to town with it: a tart, a spaghetti dish and then gratin. But I still couldn’t warm to kale. Because I didn’t like the way it tasted. And I don’t care if something is chock-full of vitamin A, C and calcium, I don’t care if it makes you live longer or feel stronger or fixes the budget deficit, I’ve got this hang-up wherein I won’t eat food if it doesn’t taste good to me. (My offspring is a little less particular, it seems.) And kale just didn’t.

sorry-looking kale

But in February, I began seeing a recipe for baked kale chips flitting about the internet. I’m not sure where it started (or re-started, as I see folks have actually been making this for years), but I’m guessing with a Dan Barber recipe in Bon Appetit that month. His version used whole leaves and arranged them daintily in a pitcher; the more rustic version I’d seen on blogs (and hooray for that) was simple to de-stem the kale, cut or tear it up, toss it with a bit of oil and bake it until crisp.

kale, ready to bake

Yes, crisp. I would never lie to you when it comes to chips, as I take crackly crunch quite seriously. Baking kale transforms the qualities I always loathed in kale — the dense bitterness — into something impossibly light, with a nice depth of flavor from the oil and salt. This isn’t a stewy stick-to-your ribs kale braise and it is not something you eat because you ought to, it’s something you’d eat because you like it. Revolutionary stuff, people.

kale, ready to bake into chips. really.

[Psst. And possibly even more so if you do this to it (hat tip):]

kale-dusted popcorn

This week: We have flown the coop! We’re splashing in the Caribbean! Thus, comment responses will be slow and spotty. But new posts will appear, as if by magic, as I take you through my cooking backlog. Fun for everyone!

One year ago: Bialys
Two years ago: Swiss Easter Rice Tart
Three years ago: Rich Buttermilk Waffles

Baked Kale Chips
Adapted from a bunch of inspiring places

1 bunch (about 6 ounces) kale (I used Lacinato or “Dinosaur” Kale but I understand that the curlier stuff works, too, possibly even better)
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sea salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 300°F. Rinse and dry the kale, then remove the stems and tough center ribs. Cut into large pieces, toss with olive oil in a bowl then sprinkle with salt. Arrange leaves in a single layer on a large baking sheet (I needed two because mine are tiny; I also lined mine with parchment for easy clean-up but there’s no reason that you must). Bake for 20 minutes, or until crisp. Place baking sheet on a rack to cool.

Kale-Dusted Popcorn If you’re making the chips with the intention to grind them up for popcorn, I’d use less oil — perhaps half — so they grind without the “powder” clumping. I ground a handful of my chips (about half) in a mortar and pestle (well, actually the “pestle” was MIA so I used the handle of an OXO reamer, not that anyone asked) and sprinkled it over popcorn (1/4 cup popcorn kernels I’d cooked in a covered pot with 1 1/2 tablespoons oil over medium heat, shaking it about with potholders frequently). I seasoned the popcorn with salt. I liked this snack, but I think Parmesan and Kale-Dusted Popcorn would be even more delicious. Next time!

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baked chickpeas with pita chips and yogurt – smitten kitchen

Nothing against barbecue-style baked beans, all tangy sauced and full of smoky burnt end drippings — hi summer, get here quick please — but I hardly see why navy beans get to have all of the fun. Where are the baked kidney beans, black-eyed peas and gigantes? Baking is a phenomenal way to cook dried beans and a great way to make something more complex of canned ones; when you start considering flavors, the sky, nay, the globe is the limit. I want these red beans slow-baked in a big casserole, scooped with tortilla chips. I want baked black beans heaped over tostones, braised white beans over Catalan-style tomato bread and I want what we had for dinner last night for the first time all over again, because it was perfect.

soak your chickpeas, or use cannedcook some onions and garlicadd drained chickpeas, spices, zestmessy pitas for chips

In an attempt to wean myself from my ongoing obsessive fixation on all things Tex-Mex — taco, tortilla, fajita and quesadilla — I didn’t get as far as it may seem. Sure, I spiked my baked chickpeas with Middle Eastern spices, but once I’d scooped them onto oven-crisped pita chips, dolloped it with lemon-tahini yogurt sauce, a finely chopped tomato-cucumber salad, well-toasted pine nuts, hot sauce and a fistful of chopped parsley, I realized I’d basically made Middle Eastern nachos. And I’m not even a little sorry.

mostly baked chickpeas

a tomato-cucumber salad relish
well-toasted pine nuts
lemon tahini garlic yogurt

Because this was one of our best dinners in ages — I’m struggling to control my gushing here, to be honest — and I’m so glad I made a full pound of beans, so we can have more for tonight. It was the kind of vegetarian meal (and vegan, too, if you omit the yogurt) that you totally forgot was, because it was incidental. It’s playful and fun to lay out many elements and let everyone pile them on as they see fit. And, because it was crunchy and fresh but also warm, fragrant and insanely filling, it felt like the perfect meal to bridge the heavy foods of winter and the brighter ones to come. More of this, please.

baked chickpeas, a little tomato-cucumber salad "relish"
baked chickpeas with pita chips and yogurt

One year ago: Whole-Grain Cinnamon Swirl Bread
Two years ago: Chocolate Hazelnut Macaroon Torte
Three years ago: Soft Eggs with Buttery Herb Gruyere Toasts
Four years ago: Oat and Maple Syrup Scones
Five years ago: Bakewell Tart
Six years ago: Cream Cheese Pound Cake and Strawberry Coulis
Seven years ago: Caramel Walnut Upside-Down Banana Cake
Eight years ago: Bulgur Salad with Chickpeas and Red Peppers

And for the other side of the world:
Six Months Ago: Latke Waffles
1.5 Years Ago: Frico Grilled Cheese Sandwiches
2.5 Years Ago: Crackly Banana Bread
3.5 Years Ago: Roasted Tomato Soup with Broiled Cheddar

Baked Chickpeas with Pita Chips and Yogurt

My baked chickpea curiousity began many years ago, when Amanda Hesser shared a recipe in the New York Times from a Basque cookbook for baked garbanzos in 1999 (yes, I’m old). I’d forgotten about it until the Times relaunched their Cooking section last fall, but I was thrown by the need for saffron threads, which are expensive to procure and likely meant that most people wouldn’t make it. So, I got to thinking about what other cultures and flavors could be applied, and landed in the Middle East. In short, it’s not the first time I’ve gone all the way around to realize later I was making something that already existed, a dish known as fatteh.

Note: To make this gluten-free, make your chips from gluten-free wraps or pitas. To make this vegan or dairy-free, make a lemon-tahini sauce, minus the yogurt. (It can be thinned with water, once you get the lemon level where you like it.)

Serves 6 generously, if eaten nacho-style

For the chickpeas
1 pound dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) or 4 15-ounce cans cooked chickpeas
1/4 cup olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika or sumac
1/2 teaspoon cayenne, spoonful of harissa or a couple shakes of your favorite hot sauce (all adjusted to your heat preference)
Few gratings fresh lemon zest
2 teaspoons coarse sea or kosher salt (what I used for lightly salted broth, use more for unsalted, less for salted or canned beans)
4 cups vegetable broth (for dried but soaked chickpeas), 1 1/2 cups vegetable broth (for cooked chickpeas)
1 cup or more of water (will likely only need if beans weren’t pre-soaked)

Fixings (all instructions below)
Fresh pitas for pita chips
Big handful of parsley (or a mix of parsley, cilantro and mint would be good too)
1/4 cup pine nuts
Tomato-cucumber “relish” salad
Lemon-tahini yogurt or plain yogurt
Additional paprika or sumac for sprinkling

Soak dried chickpeas: Do you have to soak beans before you cook them? Nope, no, nope. But it will save a lot of cooking time, making this more of a one-hour weeknight meal. So, if you can plan ahead, soak them in an ample amount of water at room temperature for 24 hours. Don’t have 24 hours? I soaked mine for 3. I will make final cooking time estimations based on soaking times. Using canned beans? Skip this step entirely.

Prepare your chickpeas: Heat oven to 375°F (190°C). In a large, heavy pot such as a Dutch oven (mine was 4 quarts, an ideal size), heat olive oil in the bottom of the pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook for 5 minutes, until they begin to soften. Add garlic and saute garlic and onions together for 3 to 4 minutes more, until everything is wilted. Add spices, zest and salt and cook with onions and garlic for one minute. Add drained soaked or canned chickpeas and:

  • for already cooked or canned chickpeas: 1 1/2 cups broth
  • for dried chickpeas that have been soaked: 4 cups broth
  • for dried chickpeas that have not been soaked: 4 cups broth and 1 cup water to start

Bring mixture to a boil and boil for one full minute. Place a lid on the pot and transfer it carefully to the oven.

Bake your chickpeas: Please keep in mind that cooking beans isn’t a perfect science, and the amount absorbed if pre-soaked or not, the age and freshness of the chickpeas and even the softness of ones from a can are going to affect how much cooking time and liquid is needed. But, these estimates are fairly solid from my experience:

  • for already cooked or canned chickpeas: bake for 15 minutes
  • for dried chickpeas that had been soaked: bake for 45 minutes (estimate for 24 hours soaking) to 75 minutes (estimate for 2 to 3 hours soaking)
  • for dried chickpeas that had not been soaked: bake for 1 hour 30 minutes, but start checking in every 10 to 15 minutes from 50 minutes on to see if more liquid or cooking time will be needed

Chickpeas are done when they’re firm-tender.

Meanwhile, prep your fixings: While the chickpeas bake, prepare any fixings that caught your eye:

To make pita chips from store-bought pitas: Separate the layers of pitas and cut into wedges. Arrange on a large baking sheet and brush lightly with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake alongside chickpeas for 10 to 15 minutes, tossing occasionally to ensure that they toast evenly. Let cool.

To toast pine nuts: Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven while the chickpeas bake for 5 minutes, tossing once or twice as they like to toast unevenly. Let cool.

To make a tomato-cucumber “relish” salad: Chop a handful of whatever decent-looking tomatoes you can find in March, and 1 large or a few smaller cucumbers into very small pieces. Finely chop 1/4 a small red onion. Mix vegetables and onion in a bowl and dress to taste with olive oil, fresh lemon juice, salt and pepper.

To make lemon-tahini yogurt: Whisk 6 tablespoons well-stirred tahini in the bottom of a bowl. Whisk in the juice of a whole lemon, 1 minced garlic clove and 4 tablespoons water until smooth. Whisk in 1 cup plain yogurt, about 1/4 at a time, until smooth. Season with salt. Adjust all levels to taste.

Serve and let everyone assemble: We started with a handful of pita chips on our plan, then heaped on the baked chickpeas, dolloped on the yogurt sauce, tomato-cucumber “relish” salad, sprinkled everything with parsley and pine nuts and then a couple of us also shook on some hot sauce. Dig in.

See also: The Middle Eastern food blog Desert Candy, which I’ve been reading for years but apparently missed the wrong month to fall behind, shared a recipe last week for “Nile Nachos” which use roasted instead of baked/braised chickpeas. I love this idea (and the fresh radishes on top); it feels snackier/lighter and a great fit for a party. I recommend patting canned chickpeas dry very well on paper towels before roasting them or they don’t get very crisp. I find that freshly-cooked beans, which tend to be firmer, crisp up better in the oven.

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