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roasted cauliflower with pumpkin seeds, brown butter and lime – smitten kitchen
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil, divided
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1 large or 2 small heads of cauliflower (about 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 pounds)
- 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter
- 1/4 cup (30 grams) hulled pumpkin seeds (sold as pepitas) (see note above)
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or less to taste
- Juice of half a lime (about 1 tablespoon)
- Handful chopped fresh cilantro, parsley or chives
While cauliflower roasts, in a small skillet over medium heat, melt butter, then reduce heat to medium-low and add pumpkin seeds. Stirring the whole time, cook until butter becomes light brown and smells toasty, about 4 to 6 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then add lime juice and season with salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes to taste.
Arrange cauliflower on a serving platter and drizzle with dressing. Serve topped with herbs.
corn chowder with chile, lime and cotija – smitten kitchen
I evicted a longtime resident of my To Cook list this week with this corn chowder. I have no argument with traditional corn chowder — it has cream, bacon, and potatoes and thus would be impossible not to love as soup or salad — but I adore to the point of boring everyone around me with my gushing, Mexican-style corn either elote-style (on the the cob rolled in butter, mayo, lime juice and coated with salty crumbled cotija cheese and chile powder or a chile-lime seasoning blend) or esquites-style (all of the above, but in a cup). This corn chowder attempts to celebrate the best of both.
I started with a classic corn chowder using whole and blended fresh kernels, onion, garlic, milk, and cream but added some jalapeño and chili powder for flavor and used cooked black and small red beans instead of potatoes for bulk. Then, right before you eat it, because I am fully of the conviction that finishes are what make a soup, you make a rich street corn-like dressing with mayo, sour cream, cheese, and lime and dollop it right into the center of the soup. Squeeze more lime all over, shake on some chili powder and finish it with fresh cilantro and, if you’re not sure you’ve gilded the lily enough (or, perhaps, have children still viewing this meal skeptically), bake some corn tortilla wedges into chips.
Repeat as long as the corn as corn is in season, or if you’re us, exactly one more evening because tomorrow (!) we are heading to Spain (!) for vacation and no, we haven’t packed or even taken our suitcases out of the closet, I’m sorry if you previously mistook us for high-functioning adults. More soon from the other side, including some Spanish favorites, a new favorite cocktail, two new Food Network episodes, and then when we return, more news about this new little cookbook coming out this fall and some book tour dates.
Corn Chowder with Chile, Lime and Cotija
- 8 medium/large ears corn, husks and silks removed
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon butter
- 1 large onion, preferably Spanish, chopped fine
- 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
- 1 to 2 jalapeño peppers, finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon mild chili powder or 1 teaspoon of a hotter one
- 3 tablespoons (25 grams) all-purpose flour
- 4 cups (945 ml) vegetable or chicken stock or broth
- 2 15-ounce cans small red or black beans, drained and rinsed (or one of each) (3 1/2 cups)
- 1 cup (235 ml) whole milk
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper or cayenne to taste
- 1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 235 ml) heavy cream
- 1/4 cup (50 grams) mayonnaise
- 1/4 cup (60 grams) sour cream or Mexican crema
- 1/2 cup (110 grams) finely crumbled Cotija, feta or ricotta salata cheese, plus more for serving
- 1 lime, divided
- 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
- Chili powder or a chili-lime seasoning such as Tajín
- Baked tortilla chips (optional)
Soup
Finish
In a large (5 quarts is ideal) heavy pot, heat olive oil and butter over medium. Add onion and cook until tender and beginning to brown at the edges, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, jalapeño and chili powder and cook together for 2 minutes more. Add flour and stir into onion-garlic mixture until it disappears. Stirring constantly, gradually add stock. Add beans, corn, and 1 cup milk and bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 13 minutes, until corn is tender. Add salt (I used about 1 tablespoon Diamond kosher salt total here) and freshly ground black pepper or cayenne to taste. Add cream to taste (we found 1/2 cup sufficient, but it will be less creamy than traditional) and cook for 3 minutes more.
To finish: Combine mayonnaise, sour cream or crema, cheese, and juice of half a lime in a bowl; stir to combine. Cut second half of lime into wedges.
Ladle soup into bowls and dollop in center with 1 tablespoon (or more to taste) of mayo-cheese mixture. Squeeze lime juice over to taste, sprinkle with chili powder and chopped cilantro and serve, baked tortilla chips on the side if you wish.
Related
garlic lime steak and noodle salad – smitten kitchen
As we discussed when we made Crispy Tofu Pad Thai, fish sauce brands can vary a lot in their salty intensity so any recipe that uses it should be adjusted to taste. It’s not written this way below because the dressing should be all you need for flavor, but I usually toss my cucumber slices with a splash of rice vinegar, a splash of toasted sesame oil, and two pinches of salt because certain small people in my family seem more inclined to eat them this way. 1 pound of green beans is probably a bit much for most people; they’re a family favorite here so I tend to overdo it.
Place steak in a sealable freezer bag. Pour in about 1/3 of this mixture and press all of the air out of the bag so it stays on the meat. Place steak in the fridge for about an hour and up to a day. I am usually in a rush, and just marinate it for as long as I am prepping everything else.
Slowly whisk 3 tablespoons oil into remaining marinade; this is now your dressing. Adjust flavors, again, to taste. Set aside until needed.
Prepare other salad ingredients: Bring a medium pot of salted water to boil. For regular sized green beans, cook them for 2.5 minutes; for haricot vert (skinny green beans), cook them for 2 minutes, then scoop out with a slotted spoon and drop into a bowl of ice water to cool, then drain and transfer to a bowl.
I use the water again to cook the noodles according to package directions; mine say to remove the boiling water from the heat, add the noodles, and let them soak for 5 minutes, until softened. Drain, place in bowl, and set aside until needed. If they get sticky, you can run cold water over them, or toss them with a splash of oil.
To grill steak: Get your grill really hot and lightly coat grates with oil. Remove steak from marinade and cook for about 3 1/2 minutes, and up to 5 minutes, per side, depending on thickness. Season both sides with salt and pepper as you grill. (I did 4 minutes per side in the thinnish flank steaks shown, and they were too medium for our tastes, but your mileage may vary.) Remove Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing very thin and putting on a serving plate.
To serve: Place cherry tomatoes, cucumbers (see Note), and herbs each in their own bowl with a spoon for serving. I like to put out extra sliced bird’s eye chili on the side, splashing a little rice or plain vinegar on it for extra kick. Put out your noodles, steak, and salad dressing too. A tiny ladle (I have one like this) is ideal for the dressing, because mine always separates, and this allows people to stir a bit before spooning it over.
To eat! We like to start with a small pile of noodles, followed by a few slices of steak, big spoonfuls of each vegetable, a few chilis, and a ladle of the dressing, followed by the herbs (don’t skimp; they’re perfect here). Repeat as needed.
corn salad with chile and lime – smitten kitchen
If you cannot find cotija, use queso fresco, ricotta salata, feta, or another crumbly sharp cheese. Most cotija is salty and a little funky; I didn’t need any salt in my sauce below the corn, but with a milder cheese, you probably will.
- 1/2 a small red onion, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
- Slightly heaped 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 6 medium ears corn, shucked
- 1/3 cup sour cream
- 1/3 cup mayonnaise
- 3 ounces (heaped 1/2 cup) crumbled cotija cheese
- 1 lime, halved
- Tajín seasoning or chile powder
- Handful of fresh cilantro leaves
Heat a grill to medium-high. Lightly oil grill grates and place corn cobs directly on them. Cook corn until charred in spots all over, turning as often as needed. Transfer them to a cutting board to cool slightly. Don’t have a grill? I have often charred corn directly over the gas flame on my stove (be careful; it will crackle and spatter a little). You oven’s broiler, should it be more robust than mine, might also work for the task.
While you’re grilling your corn, combine sour cream, mayo, and cotija cheese. Spread on the bottom of your serving plate. Cut corn corn from cobs with a sharp knife and heap it over the cheese spread on the platter. Squeeze the juice of half a lime all over, then scatter the corn with pickled onion rings from the fridge. Generously shake Tajín or chile powder all over; if you’re using plain chile powder, season with salt and an extra squeeze of lime, too. Top with cilantro leaves. Cut remaining lime half into wedges and serve alongside. Eat right away — while the dressing is cold and the corn is hot.
lemon and lime mintade – smitten kitchen
Last week was a Lot. I ventured into it buzzing with adorably ambitious New Year’s intentions to, like, get things done, and spent most of it glued to a screen, furious and frustrated. As I mentioned in this morning’s newsletter, I’ve often felt that January is a blur and this one is particularly so. Armed insurrections are not a subject I know how to discuss in any meaningful way in a recipe headnote. But if you’re feeling like you’re in a fog, do know that you’re not alone.
Because feeding times at my zoo must go on as scheduled or it gets particularly feral around here, I did make three new things last week, all from The Flavor Equation [Amazon, Bookshop], a fascinating new cookbook from Nik Sharma in which he uses his molecular biology background to apply what he knows about the science of taste to recipe development. He also has an excellent palate, demonstrated through years of blogging at A Brown Table. I made the book’s shaved brussels sprout salad with crispy shallots, the coconut chicken curry, and then, because it sounded so impossibly refreshing, this lemon and lime mintade. It was inspired by one Sharma had on a long intentional flight that, although 16 hours long, sounds positively dreamy right now, some 1600 weeks into this pandemic.
The approach here is very simple: Zest two lemons and limes. Sharma doesn’t like the microplane zester, preferring a cocktail zester; Deb has a cocktail zester but finds it annoying, is fine with the microplane zester, but really loves this type of serrated peeler (it excels at removing thin skins, like those of peaches and tomatoes, hardly a bad investment). In short: you have options. Then, make a simple syrup with sugar and water, add the zest and a good fistful of mint leaves and let it all chill together. Juice the lemons and limes and add the juice to the cooled syrup, strain it, and pour it halfway up a glass filled with ice, filling the rest with seltzer. Take a big sip that’s hopefully refreshing, clarifying, energizing, and several other -ings that my swamp brain could use a jolt of right now. I hope you find it equally magical.
Previously
6 months ago: Kachumber Cooler
1 year ago: Roasted Squash and Tofu with Ginger
2 years ago: Plush Coconut Cake
3 years ago: Sheet Pan Meatballs with Crispy Turmeric Chickpeas
4 years ago: Chocolate Dutch Baby
5 years ago: Blood Orange, Almond, and Ricotta Cake and Cabbage and Sausage Casserole
6 years ago: Key Lime Pie and Make Your Own Vanilla Extract
7 years ago: Pear and Hazelnut Muffins and Warm Lentil and Potato Salad
8 years ago: Lentil Soup with Sausage, Chard, and Garlic
9 years ago: Buttermilk Roast Chicken
10 years ago: Baked Potato Soup
11 years ago: Black Bean Soup + Toasted Cumin Seed Crema and Cranberry Syrup and an Intensely Almond Cake
12 years ago: Clementine Cake and Mushroom Bourguignon
13 years ago: Chicken Caesar Salad and Fried Chicken
14 years ago: Grapefruit Yogurt Cake
Lemon and Lime Mintade
- 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
- 1 cup (235 ml) water
- 2 large limes
- 2 medium-large lemons
- 1 bunch (about 2 ounces or 55 grams) fresh mint leaves and stems
- 3 cups (720 ml) chilled club soda or seltzer
Meanwhile, juice your lemons and limes. You want 1 cup total, half lemon and half lime juice. Once mint-zest syrup has chilled, strain out the solids and add the lemon and lime juice to the syrup. You can chill this juice-syrup mixture until needed, or up to one week in the fridge.
To serve: Fill a medium-sized glass with ice. Fill halfway with juice-syrup mixture, and the rest of the way with seltzer. Garnish with reserved mint leaves. Drink immediately.
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