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Arsip Tag: pan
In the game of weeknight cooking — which I feel, at best, is rigged and not in our favor especially if you (or you and your partner) are out working all day — our allies are as follows:
- Children, should you have them, happy to eat dinner at 8/9 p.m. on a weekday. (Let me know where to find them.)
- Prepping and planning meals over the weekend so everything is mostly ready to go when you get home from work. (Requires a desire to spend any part of the weekend prepping meals, which I, regrettably, do not.)
- Mastering the slow-cooker, so your dinner is ready when you get home.
- Mastering the pressure-cooker, so long cooking times can be reduced to smidgens.
- Contentment with quick simple meals (scrambled egg toasts, frozen tortellini, sandwiches) and/or a deep arsenal of great recipes that come together quickly.
- Meal delivery services, which take the recipe-selection, shopping and prep work out of cooking, making it go faster.
And so, with this, I am announcing that I’m leaving my job here at Smitten Kitchen LLC to go work for a meal delivery start-up. All the best food writers are doing it! I kid, I kid.
In fact, I wanted to talk about something that can fit nicely into the fifth item: sheet pan dinners, because I’m rather taken with them these days. It shouldn’t be a radical concept — everything on a sheet pan, into the oven, roasted at once — but I think in these days of restaurant chef-driven home cooking, subrecipes and cooking with multiple components has become more the norm than it should. The holy grail of the single-tray category I’d say is the 2014 Sheet Pan Suppers cookbook from Molly Gilbert, a paean to maximum ease, minimal cleanup and flavor intensification of roasting and broiling. Another great solo act in this category is Melissa Clark’s Roasted Chicken with Potatoes, Arugula and Garlic Yogurt as charming for its flavors and textures as it is for the stop-you-in-your-tracks stunning work of Andrew Scriviani’s camera.
But all I’ve ever wanted to add to this lot is a riff on an Indian-spiced chicken that favors roasting over a saucy braise. The chicken tikka you see in restaurants is, in the words of Meera Sodha, “so luminously orange you could see it from space.” Fortunately, in her excellent Made In India cookbook — a collection of recipes aimed at dispelling the myth that Indian food is intimidating or complicated, intended for first-timers and/or seasoned cooks, using no wild goose chase ingredients, which means if I could stamp it with the praise hands emoji, I would — Sodha shares her family recipe. But, because I’m a heretic, or someone who at best inauthentically dabbles in Indian cooking, I didn’t want my tikka on skewers as it’s usually presented, but with some aloo gobi (cauliflower and potatoes) in there for more of a meat-and-potatoes type meal. The results were so good, half the vegetables didn’t make it to the dinner table because my husband and I kept plucking away at them.
One year ago: Strawberry-Rhubarb Soda Syrup
Two years ago: Dark Chocolate Coconut Macaroons
Three years ago: Spinach and Smashed Egg Toast
Four years ago: Banana Bread Crepe Cake with Butterscotch
Five years ago: Blackberry Coconut Macaroon Tart
Six years ago: Radicchio Apple and Pear Salad
Seven years ago: Bialys
Eight years ago: Lemon Yogurt Anything Cake
Nine years ago: Arborio Rice Pudding
And for the other side of the world:
Six Months Ago: Cannoli Pound Cake
1.5 Years Ago: Better Chocolate Babka
2.5 Years Ago: Purple Plum Torte
3.5 Years Ago: Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls
4.5 Years Ago: Apple Pie Cookies
Sheet Pan Chicken Tikka
Chicken marinade adapted from Made In India
- In the recipe in the book, Sodha has you mash the ginger, garlic, chiles and spice in a mortar and pestle to a paste. I suppose you could also process them in a food processor or blender. I went for the method that required the least extra objects and just minced everything and mixed it, which is how I’ve written it below. If you’d prefer not to mince, definitely use one of these other methods.
- I show this (perhaps confusingly) in a 10×15-inch pan, which is the biggest that fits in my tiny oven. I scaled the recipe for a proper sheet (technically a half-sheet) pan most of us use, a 13×18-inch. You could also divide this over 2 quarter-sheet (9×13-inch) pans. The 10×15-inch version you see here yielded an awkward three servings, fine for us, not for most people.
- Cooking times will of course vary by the size of your chicken pieces. When roasting chicken breasts (always large) and drumsticks and thighs together, I halve the breasts right through the bone to even up the cooking time.
- Don’t have garam masala? Sadly, neither do I after purging some dusty spices all of five days ago. (D’oh!) To roughly approximate 1 1/3 teaspoons (yes, slightly more than you’ll need because I’m presuming everyone will be missing a spice or two below) garam masala you can use: 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric, 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/8 teaspoon each ground cumin, cardamom and mustard, 1/16 teaspoon each ground black pepper and ground fennel, plus a pinch of ground cloves and ground cayenne. “Deb, you’ve got to be kidding me…” I know, I know. You could also just add a few extra pinches of several of those and have a delightfully spiced outcome.
- Worried about spiciness? Because I think this is a good thing to know about whoever is writing your recipes, I consider myself a moderate heat appreciator, but I cook fairly mild because my 6.5 year old is not. Even with a full jalapeno in there (which can run quite mild or hot, so not necessarily a perfect measure) and a 1/4 teaspoon spicy chili powder, this was just lightly hot. The yogurt really dulls the heat. Hope that offers a guidance so you can adjust it to your preference.
For the chicken
1 3/4-inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced (see Note up top)
4 cloves of garlic, minced or pressed
1 fresh green chili (I used a jalapeno), seeded and minced
1/2 cup whole-milk yogurt
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon chili powder or cayenne, or adjusted to taste (I used 1/4 teaspoon)
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon garam masala
2 pounds chicken thighs, drumsticks or halved chicken breasts (all skin-on, bone-in)
For the vegetables
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/4 pounds (about 4 medium) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled if desired, cut into 3/4-inch chunks
1 3/4 pounds (1 small or half a very large head) cauliflower, cut into 3/4-inch-wide florets
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
To finish, if desired
A few thin slices of red onion
Dollops of yogurt
A few tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro, parsley or mint, or a mix therof
Combine ginger, garlic, fresh chili, yogurt, salt, spices and sugar in a freezer bag, bowl or container. Add chicken pieces and toss to coat evenly. Let marinate for 15 minutes or up to a day in the fridge.
When you’re ready to cook the dish, heat your oven to 425°F. Line a half-sheet (13×18-inch) with foil and coat it with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add potatoes, cauliflower, salt, cumin and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss together with you hands until evenly coated.
Remove chicken from marinade and leave excess behind. Make spaces in the vegetables for chicken parts throughout the pan. Roast in oven for 20 minutes, then toss the potato and cauliflower to ensure they’re cooking evenly, and return the pan to the oven for 10 to 20 minutes more (i.e. 30 to 40 minutes total roasting time), until chicken and vegetables are cooked through.
While it roasts, if you’d like to use the lightly pickled onion rings that we did on top, which added a nice tangy fresh zip to the dish, separate the rings and toss them in a small bowl with a squeeze of lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Set aside until needed.
When chicken and vegetables are cooked, top with garnishes of your choice — we used dollops of yogurt, herbs and scattered the above onion rings all over. Serve right in the pan.
I use the below recipe for quiche/tart doughs from time to time. It’s a bit less flaky and more sturdy (but still light and buttery) than my go-to pie dough, using a higher proportion of butter and much less water. With this extra butter, however, it becomes much more difficult to manage, even for someone who ostensibly has mastered doughs. It gets very hard in the fridge but you’ll not want to wait for it to soften to begin rolling it out because it becomes mushy much faster than flaky pie doughs. I usually regret — as you can see in the photos — the hassle of rolling it out (even more problematic in my insanely hot kitchen with the counter 12 inches from a searing steam heat pipe) and remind myself to just press the crust in next time, as I suggest below. On the plus side, because this dough is less about the big croissant-like flakes, the food processor works just fine here.
After that hard sell, yes, I fully understand if you’d prefer to use a storebought dough. You’re going to want to use 1.5 of those pre-rolled rounds and cut, paste and patch is as necessary.
No, parbaking the crust isn’t crucial, but it does make for a crisp and un-soggy base, and so if you’re going through the trouble of this buttery, delicious homemade dough, I vote for taking this extra step.
Forgive me, I didn’t note baking times last time I made this without the crust but it should be more or less the same. Be sure to oil or butter your baking pan.
I’ve talked about how this quiche works for parties. For home use, making a pan of this at the beginning of the week means we can have it for dinner for a few days with soup, salad, roasted vegetables or as a side to, say, grilled sausages.
- 1 2/3 cups (215 grams) all-purpose flour
- 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 12 tablespoons (170 grams) cold unsalted butter, diced
- 3 tablespoons (45 grams) very cold water
- Nonstick spray oil, for coating pan
- 3/4 cup (176 grams, 6 ounces, or 3/4 of an 8-ounce brick) cream cheese, soft at room temperature
- 2/3 cup (155 ml) half-and-half or 1/3 cup each whole milk and heavy cream
- 6 large eggs
- 2 10-ounce (283-gram) packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed
- 1 cup (115 grams or 4 ounces) grated cheddar or gruyere
- 1/2 cup (50 grams) finely grated Parmesan
- 1 small bundle (2 to 3 ounces or about 8 thin green onions) thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Wrap dough in plastic or waxed paper and set in freezer to quick-chill until firm but not rock-hard, about 15 to 20 minutes. You can also chill it in the fridge for 2 hours or up to 1 week until needed.
Lightly coat a 9×13-inch (quarter-sheet) pan with oil. Line bottom with parchment paper.
To roll out crust (trickier, but go for it if you’re up for the challenge): Flour your counter well. Remove crust from freezer or fridge, unwrap and flour the top of it. Even if it’s very hard, begin rolling it very gently, in light motions, so it doesn’t crack too much as you stretch it out, to about a 12×16-inch rectangle. Keep flouring top and counter underneath dough as it is prone to sticking. Work as quickly as possible because this dough softens even more than regular pie dough as it warms.
Transfer dough to prepared pan. Lift overhang to let dough slack/droop into corners so you’re not stretching it a lot to shape it to the pan. Trim overhang to 1/2- to 1-inch, then fold overhang onto sides of dough, pressing all around and letting the dough extend slightly over the edge of the pan.
To press in crust (less tricky, and what I always wish I’d done): Press dough in an even layer across bottom of pan; leave it thicker as it goes up the sides; pressing all around and letting the dough extend slightly over the edge of the pan.
Both methods: Freeze shaped dough until solid, about 20 minutes. Save your scraps! You can use them to patch any holes or cracks formed when baking.
Meanwhile, heat oven to 425 degrees F. Coat a large sheet of foil lightly with spray oil. Once crust is solid, prick it all over with a fork and press foil, oiled side down, tightly against dough. Fill foiled crust to the top with pie weights, dried beans or rice (that you don’t plan to eat at any time) or even pennies. Bake for 20 minutes then gently, carefully remove foil and weights and bake for 5 more minutes, unfilled.
While crust par-bakes, make filling: Use an electric mixer or your best whisking skills to beat cream cheese in the bottom of a large bowl until smooth and fluffy. Gradually drizzle in half-and-half, whisking the whole time so that the mixture incorporates smoothly. Whisk in eggs, two at a time, until combined. Squeeze out spinach in handfuls, removing as much extra moisture as possible. Stir in spinach, cheddar, parmesan, scallions, salt and pepper.
When crust has finished parbaking, leave oven on. Inspect crust for cracks or holes and use reserved dough to patch them if necessary. Pour in filling just to the top of the crust. You will probably have about 3/4 cup more filling than you can fit in the crust (not an issue if going crust-less or if you didn’t parbake the crust); you can bake this off in a separate oiled dish for an excellent breakfast on toast tomorrow.
Bake quiche until crust is golden brown and filling is set, about 25 minutes. Cool at least 10 minutes before serving. Quiche keeps in fridge for 4 to 5 days.
If you’d like to keep this dish, and meatballs, dairy-free, you can replace the 1/4 cup plain yogurt with 2 tablespoons of water, bringing the water in the meatballs to 1/4 cup. And of course skip the salted lemon yogurt at the end.
- 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
- 1 tablespoon fennel seed
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1 large red onion, thinly sliced, divided
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 pound (455 grams) ground turkey
- 1/2 cup panko, or another plain, dry breadcrumb
- 1/4 cup plain yogurt
- 2 tablespoons water
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 large egg
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, hot paprika, or red pepper flakes, plus more to taste
- 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, flat-leaf parsley or mint leaves, or a mix thereof, plus more to garnish
- 3 tablespoons lemon juice (from about 3/4 of a lemon)
- 3/4 cup plain yogurt
- Toasted pita wedges
- Harissa or another hot sauce
Meanwhile, make meatball mixture. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl with a fork or (my recent discovery) a potato masher to mix. Form into 1.75-inch meatballs; I use a #40 cookie scoop, which holds about 1 2/3 tablespoons.
Remove sheet pan with chickpeas from the oven (leave oven on) and move the chickpeas to the sides of the pan, clearing a space in the center. Lightly coat center with a thin coat of oil, either brush or spray it on, just to be safe. Add meatballs to oiled area, not touching. Place baking sheet in oven and bake 10 to 15 minutes, or until meatballs are cooked through.
Meanwhile, toss remaining onion slices with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and season with salt and pepper; set aside.
Combine yogurt with remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice and season with salt and pepper; set aside.
When meatballs are cooked, scatter remaining fresh herbs over the tray. Serve with lemony onions and yogurt, toasted pita wedges and hot sauce. Repeat as often as needed.
Below are the vegetables I used, but feel free to use what you have for all or some. Chinese broccoli or other greens would be great here, or shredded cabbage. Thinly sliced mushrooms, too. Dried (or fresh) thin egg noodles will crisp up best for chow mein, but if you’re okay with it being less crisp, use whatever noodles you have on hand, including rice noodles, if wheat is an issue.
- 1 bell pepper (any color), finely sliced
- 1 carrot, peeled and finely sliced diagonally
- 1 head of broccoli, cut into florets, or bundle of broccolini, cut into 1- to 2-inch segments
- Kosher salt
- Olive oil or a neutral oil
- A 250-gram or 8.8-ounce package dried thin egg noodles
- 1 small can baby corn, drained
- 6 ounces asparagus, sugar snaps, or snow peas, trimmed and cut into 1- to 2-inch segments
- 1 medium shallot or 3 scallions, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, to finish
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce, tamari, or coconut aminos
- 1 tablespoon vegetarian stir-fry sauce, such as vegetarian oyster or hoisin sauce (optional)
- 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
- 1 small clove garlic, grated or minced
Meanwhile, make the noodles: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the egg noodles, and cook according to the packet instructions, or al dente, about four to five minutes. Drain and cool under cold running water. Drain well again and pat dry with a clean tea towel.
Combine the soy seasoning ingredients in a small bowl.
Remove the baking sheet and push the vegetables to the side. Add the noodles, corn and asparagus. Drizzle the noodles with sesame oil, season with more salt and toss well to coat. Return the tray to the oven and bake for another 15 to 18 minutes, until the noodles are crispy on the top and bottom. We are looking for a combination of crispy and non-crispy noodles.
Remove the tray from the oven, drizzle over the soy seasoning and toss well. Scatter over the shallot and sesame seeds and serve.
When I was in high school and we were finally allowed to go off-grounds for lunch, we often went to a local deli where my friends would get various sandwiches with turkey, salami, ham, or all of the above, plus, lettuce, tomato, onions, vinegar and oil and I, a vegetarian in a place baffled by this, would get a the same but with cheese instead. I have thought about this sandwich and what it did well — salt, pepper, vinegar, oil, crunch — and what it did poorly — a stack of tasteless sliced deli cheese as filler — for way too long in the years (and decades, sigh) since because I still love a sandwich full of vegetables, but find most vegetable sandwiches very disappointing, either heavy with cheese (and I love cheese, but not, like, an inch of it) or overcooked, under-seasoned vegetables. Why not avocado and crispy kale? Why not hummus, marinated cucumbers and carrots? Why not… make it for yourself, Deb? Which brings us, as ever, back here today.
The pan bagnat is a sandwich that is a specialty of Nice, France. The sandwich is composed of pain de campagne, a round whole wheat bread, and the filling is modeled after a classic salade niçoise. Here is where I’m supposed to tell you what’s in a classic niçoise, but I cannot because I fell in a deep Google rabbit hole and came out, hours later, still unsure because it turns out there’s a lot of argument. Tuna? Not a given; just anchovies were in the original, apparently. Potatoes? Not traditional! Green beans? Truly only sometimes! Cucumber, apparently unacceptable. Soon comments will appear below from people who have had authentic niçoise salads with all of these things and telling me I really know nothing and it’s true! I only know that it’s a beautiful day outside and I want to focus on getting us out there, and the picnic sandwich we’ll take with us.
Here, I play off the idea of a niçoise salad filling, but with vegetarian swaps because I love a hearty sandwich full of vegetables now as much as I did in my teens. For anchovies, I use capers. For tuna, I use fork crushed, well-seasoned chickpeas, similar to what we use in my smashed chickpea salad. I keep the hard-boiled eggs but you can skip them to make it vegan. I could not get pain de campagne, so I used a baguette, but a ciabatta, which is flatter, would have been even better. I know capers, olives, and raw red onion are divisive and that’s okay, I want you to make this sandwich exactly the way you’d love it most. Do you have basil leaves? Add them if you love them. What is essential, however, is that every layer is well-seasoned and that you are not ungenerous with the olive oil. Bagnat literally means “wet,” referring to soaked bread, catching all of the deliciousness running off the ingredients. I can’t wait to see your spins on this; I hope you get to go beautiful places together this holiday weekend.
6 months ago: Corn Pudding and Sour Cream and Chive Fantails
1 year ago: Any-Kind-Of-Fruit Galette
2 years ago: Potato Vareniki
3 years ago: Ruffled Milk Pie
4 years ago: Tall Fluffy Buttermilk Pancakes and Potatoes Anna
5 years ago: Failproof Crepes + A Crepe Party, Crispy Tortellini with Peas and Proscuitto, Confetti Cookies and Roasted Carrots with Avocado and Yogurt
6 years ago: Not Derby Pie Bars, Liege Waffles and Mushrooms and Greens with Toast
7 years ago: Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp Bars and Soft Pretzel Buns and Knots
8 years ago: Japanese Cabbage and Vegetable Pancakes
9 years ago: Warm, Crisp and a Little Melty Salad Croutons and Chocolate Buckwheat Cake
10 years ago: Creme Brulee French Toasts, Leek Toasts with Blue Cheese, Vermontucky Lemonade, and Easy Jam Tart
11 years ago: Endive and Celery Salad with Fennel Vinaigrette, Rhubarb Cobbler, and Broccol Slaw
12 years ago: Brownie Roll-Out Cookies, Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad
13 years ago: Martha’s Macaroni-and-Cheese and Crispy Salted Oatmeal White Chocolate Cookies and Cherry Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake
14 years ago: Raspberry-Topped Lemon Muffins