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Arsip Tag: potatoes
Prior to last week, I only liked baked potatoes two ways and the first was so weird, I usually had the decency to keep it to myself. Many years ago, I had an internship a couple blocks from a lunch place with a baked potato sub-menu, full of odd and awesome topping combinations. My favorite involved a marinated tomato-pepper salad, avocado, cheese and — yesss — ranch dressing and it was amazing and wonderful and stop looking at me like that because I have missed and longed for it since. The second way I like baked potatoes is equally troublesome, the classic with “the works” involving heaps of cheese, butter, sour cream, bacon, chives and blood pressure medication. I no longer eat them the first way because the sandwich shop is 250 miles from here and also it has since closed; I usually resist eating them the second way because if I’m going to have all of the fat and calories of a golden, glistening and salted pile of French fries, I’d rather have them in said French fry format.
But last Monday, me, my 3 month-old and 73 month-old fell for some gorgeous 18 hour-old oyster mushrooms at the Greenmarket and, on a hunt to do something special with them, I came across a recipe for a baked potato with mushroom ragù in Food & Wine that sounded delicious and a little fancy and I had to.
The recipe was about 15 ways a headache — 4 pounds of mushrooms and adding onions near the end to a dry pan were among my grievances — that I was too sleep-deprived to see coming, but the results made a fine and a little luxurious weeknight meal with crumbled goat cheese and a bonus broccoli roast on the side. I’ve adjusted the steps and volumes to something that would have worked better the first time, which will come in hand the next time, which will be soon, because jacket weather calls for jacket potatoes, don’t you think?
Baked potato iterations, previously Twice-Baked Potatoes with Kale and Baked Potato Soup
One year ago: Homemade Harissa
Two years ago: Lazy Pizza Dough + Favorite Margherita Pizza
Three years ago: Apple Mosaic Tart with Salted Caramel
Four years ago: Cumin Seed Roasted Cauliflower with Yogurt
Five years ago: Cauliflower and Parmesan Cake
Six years ago: Apple Cider Doughnuts
Seven years ago: My Family’s Noodle Kugel and Meatballs and Spaghetti
Eight years ago: Gluten-Free Chocolate Financiers
Nine years ago: Wild Mushroom and Stilton Galette
And for the other side of the world:
Six Months Ago: Maple Pudding Cake
1.5 Years Ago: Baked Eggs with Spinach and Mushrooms
2.5 Years Ago: Bee Sting Cake
3.5 Years Ago: Pasta with Garlicky Broccoli Rabe
4.5 Years Ago: Heavenly Chocolate Cake Roll
Baked Potatoes with Wild Mushroom Ragù
Adapted a little generously from Food & Wine
4 baking potatoes (about 2 pounds)
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 small white onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves minced
1 1/2 pounds mixed mushrooms, wild are wonderful, but sliced cremini or white mushrooms will also work
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup white wine or vermouth, or 1/4 cup sherry or marsala (optional)
1/2 cup vegetable or beef broth, plus a splash or two extra if needed
1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme
4 ounce-log soft goat cheese
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley, to finish
Heat oven to 425°F. Pierce potatoes all over with a fork and rub with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place on rack and bake for 1 hour, or until tender in center when pierce with a skewer.
Meanwhile, in a large, deep skillet, melt the 2 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until softened, about 8 minutes. Turn heat to high, add mushrooms, salt and pepper and cook until the mushrooms brown, then release their juices and cook them off, about 10 minutes. Add wine, if using, scrape up any bits stuck to pan. Cook until evaporated. Add broth and thyme and bring to a simmer. Stir in final tablespoon of butter until melted. Adjust seasonings to taste.
Slit the potatoes and fluff the insides with a fork. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, a few goat cheese crumbles, a ladleful of the mushrooms and chives. Serve with extra mushrooms and goat cheese on the side.
Prepare the meatloaves: Heat your oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly coat 2 9×13-inch baking dishes with nonstick spray or oil. Tear the bread into chunks and then blend it, in a food processor, into breadcrumbs. Place the breadcrumbs in a large bowl. You should have about 1 cup.
Add the onion, garlic, celery, and carrot to the food processor, and pulse it until they are finely chopped. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Once the skillet is hot, coat the bottom with olive oil, and heat the oil for a minute; add the finely chopped vegetables. Season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes.
Add the vegetables to the large bowl with breadcrumbs, then add the remaining ingredients. Stir the ingredients together with a fork or your hands until evenly blended.
Pause for a moment to start mashed potatoes: Place the potatoes in a medium pot, and cover with a couple inches of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, and once it’s boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes once the simmering begins; the potatoes are ready when a paring knife or fork can be inserted into the center with little resistance. Drain potatoes, then wipe the pot dry.
Resume your meatloaves while the potatoes boil: Form the meatloaf mixture into twelve 3-inch meatballs; each will weigh about 4 ounces. Arrange 6 in each prepared baking pan, evenly. Drizzle or brush each meatball with a teaspoon or so of the tomato glaze you made earlier, and bake until cooked through, about 20 to 25 minutes (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of a cooked meatball will register 160 to 165F).
Finish mashed potatoes: As soon as you can hold them (I use potholders), peel your potatoes. The skins should come right off with a paring knife. Run the potatoes through a potato ricer or mash them with a masher until smooth. In your empty potato pot, melt butter over medium heat and continue cooking once it has melted, stirring almost constantly, until brown bits form around edge and bottom and it smells nutty. Pour the hot butter and any browned bits over the potatoes. Add buttermilk to pot and warm it gently (so it doesn’t cool down your potatoes when you add it). Pour this over the potatoes too. Add salt and pepper and stir to combine.
To serve: Place a dollop of potatoes in the bottom of a plate or shallow bowl. Top with a meatloaf. Garnish with extra chopped parsley, if desired.
So, ahem [taps on microphone]… In the summer of 2014 I announced that I had not learned my lesson the first time and would be writing another cookbook. My editor and agent told me the second book always goes faster; it’s like they didn’t think I’d rise to the challenge. This 2015 release might have had some (tiny, adorable) effect on a rain-checked 2016 release, but as the first Smitten Kitchen Cookbook approaches its 5th birthday, the wildest thing has happened: this second book I promised you is (at last) out of my hands and headed to the printers.
Smitten Kitchen Every Day: Triumphant & Unfussy New Favorites will be released on October 24th and I cannot wait to share it with you. I hope more than anything that it’s worth the wait.
Why triumphant and unfussy? Over the last 5 years, I’ve had a lot of “opportunities” (heh, we call it “Hangry O’Clock” and it’s quite loud) to think about what cooking more often with less time means but when I realized I didn’t want to write the book that is usually expected in this category — 20 minute meals, 7 ingredient fixes, and/or my suggested and swiftly rejected title, wait, didn’t we just feed you guys yesterday? I got stuck.
I didn’t want a book whose goal was to rush you out of the kitchen the second you began to unwind.
I didn’t want to operate from the assumption that cooking is drudgery, when for so many of us, it’s a much-needed escape.
I didn’t want to waste anyone’s time, but I also knew that a recipe that takes 10 minutes longer isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker if those 10 minutes make it infinitely better.
And I wanted to talk about the fact that the more we cooked, the more people we crowded around the table, the more fun we were having.
This is the result: these are the recipes for the food that makes us happy. This doesn’t mean that this book isn’t full of practical recipes that fit into a busy life, it simply means that they don’t do this before — they don’t prioritize it over — making food that we are really, really excited to eat.
It’s a Hopelessly Unapologetically Inauthentic Caesar Salad that we make almost every week of the year from a dressing that seems to keep in the fridge almost indefinitely, so we make a big jar of it. It’s a crumb cake that — even after 10-plus years of having cakes and other goodies around as I test recipes — has proven to be my match: I cannot be near it; it’s not safe. It’s breakfast-style sticky toffee pudding and potato skins, and this giant picnic sandwich that might be alone enough reason to become a person who picnics. There’s a succotash full of wanderlust and tacos from such exotic places as the Jersey Shore. There’s a whole section of soups and stews, and I hope not one of them is predictable. There’s a massive section of vegetarian mains, even more than last time, but also the kind of steak salad I make when lots of people come over. I hope you’ll find the last one-bowl, no-sweat birthday cake recipes you’ll ever need in unlimited shapes and at least 24 flavor combinations, and I bet you can imagine how just reading that last part makes me grateful for the cocktail and mocktail that cap off the book. There are so many recipes in there I’d been jotting in the margins for so many years, that it’s torture not to be able to share everything already.
As of today, the book is available for preorder almost everywhere books are sold.
U.S. Edition: Amazon | Barnes & Noble | Books-a-Million | iBooks | Hudson Booksellers | IndieBound | Other U.S. Retailers
Canadian Edition: Chapters | Amazon Canada | Kobo Canada
U.K. Edition, 2018: Amazon U.K. | Waterstone’s
A little something extra: I realize that 5 months is a bit long to wait for a book you’ve ordered, so — and I’m sorry, this is only something I can do in the U.S. — as a thank you, if you’ve preordered Smitten Kitchen Every Day, email me (at [email protected]) your address and confirmation number any time in the next two weeks (end date: May 30, 2017) and I’ll send you a bonus recipe, one we couldn’t make fit, no matter how we tried, in the mail. It is covered in sprinkles and that’s not even the best thing about it.
* And here’s some legal stuff I’m required to say about this.
Giving this as a gift?: We’ve created downloadable, printable certificates for anyone you’ve preordered the book as a gift for, to let them know. You can pick the look: This one has an outtake from the front cover. This is an an outtake from the back cover. (And yes that’s cake, so much cake.)
Now I want to talk about the cover: It’s a dish I call Cacio e Pepe Potatoes Anna and we love it for a great many reasons. The cacio e pepe part comes from becoming infatuated with the dish when we went to Rome a few years ago. The best cooking uses simple ingredients to create much more than the sum of its parts, and this pasta dish, whose flavor hinges on sharp, salty pecorino cheese and the sparkly heat of black pepper and absolutely nothing else, is one of the best examples I know. But I didn’t put it on pasta; I put it on something of a poor man’s pommes Anna. Potatoes Anna is a classic French dish of thinly sliced potatoes cooked in a significant amount of clarified butter, layered to form a cake that’s flipped in a pan on the stove every 10 minutes until the outside is golden and crispy. A potato galette is for people who live their lives outside restaurant kitchens — or, perhaps, have a curly-haired tyrant named Anna in their lives.
This version is far more hands-off but doesn’t skimp on the best part, which is that it looks like a crown of potatoes and tastes a tiny bit like a potato chip casserole, with deeply bronzed and crisp edges and a baked-just-so center, infused with salty cheese and a warming kick of pepper. With a salad of lightly dressed greens, it makes a pretty luxurious simple dinner. As a side dish, it steals the show. With an egg on top, well, I can no longer remember why I ever eat anything else.
Cacio e Pepe Potatoes Anna
- 1/2 cup (65 grams) finely grated aged Pecorino Romano
- 1 tablespoon (10 grams) potato starch or cornstarch
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea or table salt, or to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon finely ground black pepper, or a larger amount coarsely ground
- 3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, melted, or olive oil
- 2 pounds (roughly 1 kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/8-inch-thick, ideally on a mandolin
- 8 cups (5 2/3 ounces or 160 grams) loosely packed arugula
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil
- 2 teaspoons (10 ml) white wine vinegar
Pour 1 tablespoon butter or oil into the bottom of a 9-inch-diameter cast-iron or ovenproof skillet, and swirl it up the sides. Arrange the potatoes in overlapping concentric circles in a single layer at the bottom of the pan. (This will use approximately a quarter of your sliced potatoes.) Drizzle with 1 teaspoon butter or oil, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the cheese-pepper mixture. You’ll need to repeat this three or four times to use up your potatoes (depending on their size). At the end, you should have about 1 tablespoon cheese-pepper mixture left over; reserve this. Drizzle any remaining melted butter over the top.
To bake: Lightly coat a piece of foil with nonstick spray and cover the skillet tightly with it. Put in heated oven for 35 minutes, at which point the potatoes will be almost tender. Use potholdered hands to press firmly on the foil to compact the potatoes a bit. Remove and reserve the foil and bake for 25 to 30 minutes more, until lightly brown all over. Press again with the foil, remove, then briefly run under the broiler for an even golden-brown finish.
To finish and serve: While the galette bakes, toss the arugula with the olive oil and vinegar, keeping the dressing very light.
Once the galette is out of the oven, let it rest in the skillet for a few minutes before running a knife around to ensure that it is loose. Gently tip the skillet over your sink to drain any excess butter or oil. Invert it onto a plate or cutting board, then flip right side up. Cut the galette into wedges, then top with the dressed greens, and sprinkle with the reserved cheese-pepper mixture.
Do ahead: This galette can be made up to 3 days in advance. Rewarm at 350 degrees for 15 minutes with foil on top.
* Email your name, mailing address, and preorder confirmation number from your order receipt for the Smitten Kitchen Every Day cookbook by Deb Perelman to [email protected] to participate in this bonus offering, while supplies last. Must be 18 years of age or older at the time of entry. Void where prohibited or restricted by law. No groups, club, or organizations may participate. Limited to one request per IP address. Incomplete forms will not be eligible. Multiple entries from the same email address will be automatically disqualified. US mailing address required. Please allow 5 weeks for postcard to arrive by mail. Offer valid between May 15, 2017 and May 30, 2017.
I have been obsessed with the Argentinian chef Francis Mallman since I saw his of Chef’s Table episode in 2015. Sure, about the only thing we have in common is a desire to set food on fire, you know, artfully. He does so these days to great acclaim on his private Patagonian island (and 8 other restaurants around the world), accessible through two flights, a five-hour drive, and then 90-minute raft across a lake. I live on a busy block of a crowded city accessible by nearly every format of public transportation, and do so to moderate acclaim (relative mostly to how well the patrons slept that day) under a wispy-by-design gas broiler.
A few weeks ago, my obsession led us to a restaurant named Mettā in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, where everything is either cooked or finished over an open fire (if you go, do so on a cold night and sit at the counter, you’ll be glad you did) where the chef is protégé of Mallman. On the dessert menu is a highly regarded ash-roasted sweet potato with an infused whipped cream* and while it was delicious, forgive me, I didn’t have the Moment with it that every other restaurant reviewer has, but still tucked it away in my head as something I wanted to get back to soon. I just didn’t expect it to be exactly two days later, when I spotted a slow-roasted and charred sweet potato recipe from Michael Solomonov in Saveur. Obviously — because a jump from Patagonia to Fort Greene and then Solomonov is the very definition of “obvious” — it was fate.
Let me make no claims to the weekday appeal of this dish. It may not even have weekend appeal. I totally understand if you might find clearing nearly 3 hours just to cook a potato about as easy as buying a private Patagonian island. I only want you to promise that when you can, you will.
Here’s what happens when you rub a sweet potato with a generous amount of salt and pepper and bake it in a 275-degree oven for 2 1/2 hours and then finish it under the broiler: the flesh of the sweet potato gets sweeter, louder, and more nuanced than seems possible and the salty, lightly blackened skin gets so crispy, you’re going to immediately retroactively resent all of the sweet potatoes you had before then for not tasting like this.
But also: So, you know that only-in-America Thanksgiving sweet potato casserole with the marshmallows on top? Well, I’m about to go there. I’m about to tell you that the two things people (not me no never, how could you even suggest!) like it about it — even-sweeter sweet potatoes and a toasty, charred finish — are exactly why this dish is so good, but it gets there naturally over 150 minutes. You can use or discard this information as you wish.
* that had us reminiscing about the time we went to this restaurant in Paris where we were told by a friend to “order the Corleone and don’t ask what it is” and it turned out to a candied eggplant confit with orange zest and cinnamon and ricotta ice cream that was unforgettable enough that I bring it up here, 10 years later.
One year ago: Broccoli Pizza
Two years ago: Taco Torte and Miso Black Sesame Caramel Corn
Three years ago: Chocolate Oat Crumble
Four years ago: Garlicky Party Bread with Herbs and Cheese and Fennel and Blood Orange Salad
Five years ago: Egg Salad with Pickled Celery and Coarse Dijon
Six years ago: Lasagna Bolognese
Seven years ago: Meatball Sub with Caramelized Onions
Eight years ago: New York Deli Rye Bread and Best Cocoa Brownies
Nine years ago: Chicken Milanese and an Escarole Salad, Flaky Blood Orange Tart and Warm Butternut Squash and Chickpea Salad
Ten years ago: Matzo Ball Soup
Eleven years ago: Miniature Soft Pretzels
And for the other side of the world:
Six Months Ago: German Chocolate Cake + A Wedding Cake
1.5 Years Ago: Peach Melba Popsicles
2.5 Years Ago: Takeout-Style Sesame Noodles with Cucumber
3.5 Years Ago: Blueberry Crumb Cake and Cold Noodles with Miso, Lime and Ginger
4.5 Years Ago: Burst Tomato Galette with Corn and Zucchini
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or rosemary leaves (I skipped because mine are under snow)
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 pounds yukon gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch slices
- 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock or low-sodium broth
- 3 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
[This is really, crazy hot. If you’re really nervous, I suppose that 450 degrees or 475 will also work, but I made it both times at 500 without problems.]
Place melted butter in the bottom of a large bowl. Stir in herbs, if using, salt, and pepper. Add potato slices and mix to evenly coat them. Spread potato slices and all of the good stuff at the bottom of the bowl in a 9×13 (quarter-sheet) metal (a glass baking dish shouldn’t be used at this high of a temperature) baking pan.
Roast potatoes for 15 minutes. Use a thin spatula (you all know by now how much I love a flexible fish spatula, especially here) to loosen potatoes and turn them over. Roast for a second 15 minutes, then carefully pour stock or broth into pan and add the garlic cloves. Roast for 15 minutes more, until potatoes are fully tender.
Remove from oven. Transfer to a serving platter along with any remaining liquid in pan and serve warm to very lucky people.
My love of french fries is vast and well–documented — preferably in a golden, crisp and glittering-with-fine-salt heap with some aioli, an artichoke or oysters and ice-cold, very dry champagne, outside at a bustling cafe in a life that seems a bit distant right now — so I hope you will take this statement with the utmost gravitas when I say that these crispy potatoes are as good as, if not better, than fries.
I first had a version of them at Barbuto restaurant (of the chocolate budino and kale salad fame) nearly eight years ago, and I’ve watched cooks making them in the open kitchen dozens of times since. Cold, boiled potatoes are crumbled directly into a fryer in irregular chunks and not taken out until they’re a deep golden brown. Once drained they’re tossed in a big metal bowl with salt, a lot of pecorino, and a few sprigs of fried rosemary. They are perfect, absolutely perfect.
I’m sorry, but you’re going to have to do two annoying things to make them at home: you’ll have to cook and fully chill the potatoes for several hours or overnight before you can finish them, and you’re going to have to deep-fry. There isn’t another way around either. That’s why it’s taken me all of these years to share the recipe because, eh, who wants to bother? I mean, not even me, not when I
can could* order them at some of my favorite restaurants. The potatoes will be too loose and floury and not crumble into nice chunks unless they’re fully cold. And yes, I’ve tried to roast them instead and it’s just not the same, not even close — the smaller pieces and corners turn black before the angles of the chunks get any color on them. Plus, they always seem oily in a way that the deep-fried nuggets are not. It’s the even toasty color and perfect crisp on every craggy, erratic angle that makes these transcendent.
From here, you can Barbuto them (pecorino, rosemary), you can MeMe’s Diner them (finish them little drizzle of shallot oil, I presume leftover from crisping shallots), you could patatas bravas them (smoked paprika, aioli, and a spicy tomato sauce), or you can just salt them and not feel, however briefly, that you’re missing out on a single, blissful thing.
* Both Barbuto is currently closed and MeMe’s Diner, unfortunately, permanently closed. It’s been a heartbreaking year for restaurants. I wish I could list and support every restaurant I love, but it would be all of them. Here are a few more places you can donate, should you be able.
Six months ago: Chicken Curry
One year ago: Cannellini Aglio e Olio
Two years ago: Asparagus and Egg Salad with Walnuts and Mint
Three years ago: Almond Horn Cookies
Four years ago: Eggs-in-Purgatory, Puttanesca-Style and Spring Chicken Salad Toasts
Five years ago: Carrot Graham Layer Cake and Wild Mushroom Pate
Six years ago: Three Bean Chili
Seven years ago: Lentil and Chickpea Salad with Feta and Tahini
Eight years ago: Raspberry Coconut Macaroons
Nine years ago: Spaetzle
Ten years ago: Bakewell Tart and Romesco Potatoes
Eleven years ago: Chewy Amaretti Cookies
Twelve years ago: Shaker Lemon Pie
Thirteen years ago: Mixed Berry Pavlova
Terry’s recipe calls for 1/4 cup sugar in the corn relish but I used only 1 tablespoon, as I prefer a less sweet relish. I also increased the salt from 1/2 to 1 teaspoon, due to personal tastes. I ended up making the potatoes with large red ones which are definitely more awkward but not impossible to smash and fry.
- 3 large ears sweet corn, shucked
- 12 ripe cherry tomatoes, cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices
- 1/2 cup finely diced red onion
- 1/2 cup finely diced green bell pepper
- 2 tablespoons minced jalapeno
- 2 garlic cloves, ends cut off
- 3/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
- 1/4 cup raw cane sugar (see Note)
- 1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds
- 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
- 1 pound fresh spring peas in their pods (or about 1 to 1 1/4 cup frozen)
- 1/2 teaspoon minced, seeded, minced jalapeño
- 1/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed
- Freshly ground white pepper
- 16 small new potatoes (a little larger than a walnut is what Terry recommends)
- 1/2 cup peanut or a vegetable oil
- 2 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Sweet Corn Relish, for serving
- Spicy Spring Green Pea Sauce, for serving
Sweet corn relish
Spring green pea sauce
Smashed potatoes, onions, and assembly
Make the Sweet Corn Relish: Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Prepare a bowl with ice water and set aside. Add the corn, bring the water back to a boil, and blanche for 1 minute. Drain the corn in a colander and immediately transfer to the ice water bath for 5 minutes. Drain the corn and slice the kernels from the ears. Place the corn kernels, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper, jalapeño, and garlic in a 1-quart jar, or divide between 2 1-pint jars, and set aside. In the same pot you used for the corn, combine the vinegar, 1/4 cup water, sugar, mustard and cumin seeds, salt, peppercorns, and turmeric and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid is hot to the touch and the sugar has completely dissolved, about 3 minutes. Pour the liquid over the corn mixture and let cool. Refrigerate the relish for at least one day to develop the flavor, or up to 1 year.
Make the Spicy Spring Pea Sauce: Remove your peas from their pods. In a medium pot or saucepan, bring 1 quart water to boil over high heat. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt and gently pour the peas into the pot. Blanch until just tender, about 3 minutes, or up to 4 minutes if they were frozen. Drain the peas in a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer the peas to a blender. Add 1/4 water to start, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, the jalapeño, and the lemon juice and puree until smooth, adding remaining 1/4 cup water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary (the mixture should be viscous but pour fairly easily from the blender). Pour the pureed peas into a serving bowl. Season more salt, white pepper, and lemon juice to taste.
Make the Smashed Potatoes and Caramelized Onion Rings: Fit a large pot with a steamer insert and fill with 2 inches of water. Put the potatoes and in the steamer, cover, and cook over medium heat until fork-tender, about 35 to 45 minutes, adding more water to the pot if necessary. Remove the potatoes from the steam and let cool for 5 minutes.
While the potatoes are steaming, warm 1/4 cup of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Reduce the heat to low and add the onion slices, keeping them intact. Cook, gently stirring and flipping as needed for even cooking, until just starting to caramelize, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and set aside. Leave any extra oil behind in the pan.
On a clean work surface, gently press each potato with the palm of your hand to flatten it to about 1/2-inch-thick. Set aside. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. In the same large skillet where you cooked the onion slices, add the remaining 1/4 cup oil over medium-high heat. Add half the potatoes in a single layer and cook until crispy and browning, about 5 minutes. Salt the potatoes, gently flip them, and fry for 4 to 5 minutes more. Salt the second side and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining potatoes.
To serve: arrange the potatoes on a serving platter, top with the onions and sweet corn relish, and season with pepper. Put the pea sauce in a medium bowl and serve it alongside the potatoes.
Listen, it wouldn’t be a Smitten Kitchen recipe without at least one dose of do-as-I-say-not-as-I-show in these photos, but today, as a treat, there are two: I tested these with different potatoes including the more traditional Russets (shown here) and while they’re all great, I vastly prefer these with creamier Yukon gold potatoes. Use what you’ve got, but if you can get golden, waxier potatoes, these are even better. I also prefer to roast them in a metal, not white or stoneware, baking dish or rimmed baking sheet — it goes faster, gets more crisp, and sticks less. Regardless, use what you’ve got and you’re in for a treat.
- 2 pounds yukon gold (ideally) or russet potatoes (see note), peeled and quartered lengthwise into thick wedges
- 4 tablespoons olive oil or 3 tablespoons olive oil plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, diced
- 2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves, minced or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- Finely grated zest and juice of two lemons (about 1/4 cup juice)
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 3 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
- 3/4 cup broth, chicken or vegetable
- Chopped fresh parsley or dill, plus additional lemon slices or wedges, to finish
- Heat oven to 475°F.
- As a few, sadly, have learned the hard way, glass can break when faced with a big temperature change, such as pouring the cold broth and lemon juice into the very hot pan near the end. If you only have glass to roast in, warm the broth before pouring it in, then, once it’s in, cold or room temperature lemon juice is fine to add next.
- this spatula is my forever go-to
In a 9×13-inch rimmed sheet pan or deeper baking dish (ideally stainless steel, coated, or stoneware, not glass*) toss potatoes with olive oil, oregano, salt, zest, and pepper evenly to coat. If using butter, dot it over. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, until potatoes are well-browned underneath. Use a thin spatula** to turn potatoes over, sprinkle in garlic cloves, and return to the oven for another 10 to 15 minutes, until mostly browned underneath on the second side. Pour in broth and lemon juice all over and return to the oven a final time for 15 minutes, or until potatoes and garlic cloves are tender and liquids have reduced to a very thin puddle. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving (any remaining liquid will absorb), sprinkle with herbs, and serve with additional lemon wedges.