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Arsip Tag: sweet
I have been obsessed with the Argentinian chef Francis Mallman since I saw his of Chef’s Table episode in 2015. Sure, about the only thing we have in common is a desire to set food on fire, you know, artfully. He does so these days to great acclaim on his private Patagonian island (and 8 other restaurants around the world), accessible through two flights, a five-hour drive, and then 90-minute raft across a lake. I live on a busy block of a crowded city accessible by nearly every format of public transportation, and do so to moderate acclaim (relative mostly to how well the patrons slept that day) under a wispy-by-design gas broiler.
A few weeks ago, my obsession led us to a restaurant named Mettā in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, where everything is either cooked or finished over an open fire (if you go, do so on a cold night and sit at the counter, you’ll be glad you did) where the chef is protégé of Mallman. On the dessert menu is a highly regarded ash-roasted sweet potato with an infused whipped cream* and while it was delicious, forgive me, I didn’t have the Moment with it that every other restaurant reviewer has, but still tucked it away in my head as something I wanted to get back to soon. I just didn’t expect it to be exactly two days later, when I spotted a slow-roasted and charred sweet potato recipe from Michael Solomonov in Saveur. Obviously — because a jump from Patagonia to Fort Greene and then Solomonov is the very definition of “obvious” — it was fate.
Let me make no claims to the weekday appeal of this dish. It may not even have weekend appeal. I totally understand if you might find clearing nearly 3 hours just to cook a potato about as easy as buying a private Patagonian island. I only want you to promise that when you can, you will.
Here’s what happens when you rub a sweet potato with a generous amount of salt and pepper and bake it in a 275-degree oven for 2 1/2 hours and then finish it under the broiler: the flesh of the sweet potato gets sweeter, louder, and more nuanced than seems possible and the salty, lightly blackened skin gets so crispy, you’re going to immediately retroactively resent all of the sweet potatoes you had before then for not tasting like this.
But also: So, you know that only-in-America Thanksgiving sweet potato casserole with the marshmallows on top? Well, I’m about to go there. I’m about to tell you that the two things people (not me no never, how could you even suggest!) like it about it — even-sweeter sweet potatoes and a toasty, charred finish — are exactly why this dish is so good, but it gets there naturally over 150 minutes. You can use or discard this information as you wish.
* that had us reminiscing about the time we went to this restaurant in Paris where we were told by a friend to “order the Corleone and don’t ask what it is” and it turned out to a candied eggplant confit with orange zest and cinnamon and ricotta ice cream that was unforgettable enough that I bring it up here, 10 years later.
One year ago: Broccoli Pizza
Two years ago: Taco Torte and Miso Black Sesame Caramel Corn
Three years ago: Chocolate Oat Crumble
Four years ago: Garlicky Party Bread with Herbs and Cheese and Fennel and Blood Orange Salad
Five years ago: Egg Salad with Pickled Celery and Coarse Dijon
Six years ago: Lasagna Bolognese
Seven years ago: Meatball Sub with Caramelized Onions
Eight years ago: New York Deli Rye Bread and Best Cocoa Brownies
Nine years ago: Chicken Milanese and an Escarole Salad, Flaky Blood Orange Tart and Warm Butternut Squash and Chickpea Salad
Ten years ago: Matzo Ball Soup
Eleven years ago: Miniature Soft Pretzels
And for the other side of the world:
Six Months Ago: German Chocolate Cake + A Wedding Cake
1.5 Years Ago: Peach Melba Popsicles
2.5 Years Ago: Takeout-Style Sesame Noodles with Cucumber
3.5 Years Ago: Blueberry Crumb Cake and Cold Noodles with Miso, Lime and Ginger
4.5 Years Ago: Burst Tomato Galette with Corn and Zucchini
Heat is the trickiest thing for me to get right for everyone in recipes; some chili powders (and I’m referring to chili powder, the blend, not chile powder, which is just ground chiles) ranges wildly in heat. If yours is spicy and you like things spicy, go up to 1 tablespoon. If yours is mild but you’d like it spicier, also use 1 tablespoon and add some chipotle powder, cayenne or a few shakes of hot sauce to taste. If yours is very hot but you don’t want the dish to be too spicy for people who don’t like heat, just 1 teaspoon may be fine.
- 2 pounds (about 4 medium) sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 to 3/4″ cubes
- Olive oil
- 1 heaped teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 heaped teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 to 3 teaspoons chili powder, to taste (see Note)
- Chipotle powder, cayenne, or shakes of hot sauce, to taste (see Note)
- 1/2 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
- 12 small (6-inch) or 6 medium (8 to 9-inch) flour tortillas
- 1 15-ounce can refried black beans
- 1 lime, in wedges
- Sliced avocado, pickled red onions, pickled jalapenos, chopped fresh cilantro, hot sauce, Lazy Taco Slaw, or your choice(s) thereof, to finish
Roast potatoes for 40 to 45 minutes, tossing once or twice for even color.
To assemble, if you have a gas stove, I love running flour tortillas over an open flame to give them a little char and complexity. Otherwise, you can wrap the stack of them in foil and let them warm in the oven while the potatoes roast for 5 minutes.
Schmear some refried black beans on each tortilla. Add a big spoonful or two of roasted sweet potatoes. Squeeze a little lime juice over the potatoes and black beans (don’t skip this, please), and finish with toppings of your choice, shown here with a shake of hot sauce, sliced avocado, pickled red onions, and cilantro. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
To get ours ready for the family meal, I get the tacos as far as the black beans, sweet potatoes, lime juice, and avocado, and let everyone take it from there. They stay warm for about 15 minutes nested, as shown, in a casserole dish.
I looked for longer, thinner sweet potatoes here, so the slices weren’t too big. If you’d like more heat, paper-thin slices of a hot pepper such as a jalapeno or serrano would be a great addition here.
- 2 pounds (about 4 medium) sweet potatoes
- 6 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds), raw or roasted
- 1 teaspoon mild (Aleppo-style) or hot red pepper flakes, or less to taste
- 2 limes
- 1 15-ounce can black beans
- 1 large avocado
- 1 big handful fresh cilantro
- 4 thin scallions
- 1 cup crumbled cotija (optional)
While potatoes roast, combine pepitas with 3 tablespoons olive oil in a small skillet and warm over medium heat. Let pepitas sizzle in oil for 1 to 2 minutes but keep a close eye on them; raw ones may be able to handle more time but already toasted ones will need less to get one shade darker. Remove from heat, season with salt to taste plus red pepper flakes. Set aside until potatoes are ready.
Drain and rinse your black beans. Halve avocado and remove the pit. Leave halves in their skin and cut avocado into thin slices, not cutting through the skin. Roughly chop cilantro, thinly slice scallions (white and green), and halve your limes, cutting one further into wedges. Squeeze one lime wedge over avocado to keep it from browning.
When potatoes are ready, immediately spoon pepitas and oil over potatoes, and squeeze the juice of your limes halves over. Scatter tray with black beans. Use a spoon to remove avocado slices in sections and fan them out over the tray. Sprinkle pan with cilantro and scallions, plus cotija if you’re using it (recipe will, of course, no longer be vegan). Season well with additional salt and pepper.
Scoop sections of potatoes and their toppings onto plates, serve with extra lime wedges, and eat right away. Leftovers keep nicely for a few days in the fridge; I didn’t rewarm them.
Terry’s recipe calls for 1/4 cup sugar in the corn relish but I used only 1 tablespoon, as I prefer a less sweet relish. I also increased the salt from 1/2 to 1 teaspoon, due to personal tastes. I ended up making the potatoes with large red ones which are definitely more awkward but not impossible to smash and fry.
- 3 large ears sweet corn, shucked
- 12 ripe cherry tomatoes, cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices
- 1/2 cup finely diced red onion
- 1/2 cup finely diced green bell pepper
- 2 tablespoons minced jalapeno
- 2 garlic cloves, ends cut off
- 3/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
- 1/4 cup raw cane sugar (see Note)
- 1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds
- 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
- 1 pound fresh spring peas in their pods (or about 1 to 1 1/4 cup frozen)
- 1/2 teaspoon minced, seeded, minced jalapeño
- 1/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed
- Freshly ground white pepper
- 16 small new potatoes (a little larger than a walnut is what Terry recommends)
- 1/2 cup peanut or a vegetable oil
- 2 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Sweet Corn Relish, for serving
- Spicy Spring Green Pea Sauce, for serving
Sweet corn relish
Spring green pea sauce
Smashed potatoes, onions, and assembly
Make the Sweet Corn Relish: Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Prepare a bowl with ice water and set aside. Add the corn, bring the water back to a boil, and blanche for 1 minute. Drain the corn in a colander and immediately transfer to the ice water bath for 5 minutes. Drain the corn and slice the kernels from the ears. Place the corn kernels, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper, jalapeño, and garlic in a 1-quart jar, or divide between 2 1-pint jars, and set aside. In the same pot you used for the corn, combine the vinegar, 1/4 cup water, sugar, mustard and cumin seeds, salt, peppercorns, and turmeric and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid is hot to the touch and the sugar has completely dissolved, about 3 minutes. Pour the liquid over the corn mixture and let cool. Refrigerate the relish for at least one day to develop the flavor, or up to 1 year.
Make the Spicy Spring Pea Sauce: Remove your peas from their pods. In a medium pot or saucepan, bring 1 quart water to boil over high heat. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt and gently pour the peas into the pot. Blanch until just tender, about 3 minutes, or up to 4 minutes if they were frozen. Drain the peas in a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer the peas to a blender. Add 1/4 water to start, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, the jalapeño, and the lemon juice and puree until smooth, adding remaining 1/4 cup water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary (the mixture should be viscous but pour fairly easily from the blender). Pour the pureed peas into a serving bowl. Season more salt, white pepper, and lemon juice to taste.
Make the Smashed Potatoes and Caramelized Onion Rings: Fit a large pot with a steamer insert and fill with 2 inches of water. Put the potatoes and in the steamer, cover, and cook over medium heat until fork-tender, about 35 to 45 minutes, adding more water to the pot if necessary. Remove the potatoes from the steam and let cool for 5 minutes.
While the potatoes are steaming, warm 1/4 cup of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Reduce the heat to low and add the onion slices, keeping them intact. Cook, gently stirring and flipping as needed for even cooking, until just starting to caramelize, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and set aside. Leave any extra oil behind in the pan.
On a clean work surface, gently press each potato with the palm of your hand to flatten it to about 1/2-inch-thick. Set aside. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. In the same large skillet where you cooked the onion slices, add the remaining 1/4 cup oil over medium-high heat. Add half the potatoes in a single layer and cook until crispy and browning, about 5 minutes. Salt the potatoes, gently flip them, and fry for 4 to 5 minutes more. Salt the second side and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining potatoes.
To serve: arrange the potatoes on a serving platter, top with the onions and sweet corn relish, and season with pepper. Put the pea sauce in a medium bowl and serve it alongside the potatoes.